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Friday, July 29, 2016

Skorne Basing

Today, the skies opened up and drowned the world in rain.  This means that I wasn't able to do any much needed priming.  I did get the basing done.  My plan is to drybrush the cork with greens and blues and then paint the rocks grey.  I'll then gloss over the cork to hopefully make it look like swampy sort of look.  I'm not sure if it'll work, but it's worth a shot.

I particularly like the posing on the Warlock.  He really looks like standing on the high ground and flailing his whips around.

I should have more Skorne models showing up from eBay at some point either today or tomorrow.  I found the old Mk2 Starter, a set of tokens and one of the three option Titan kits for $40.  I'll be using them to expand this army pretty quickly.  I really want to use two Titans.

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Skorne Color Scheme

I'm definitely going to start paint the Skorne models I bought as my next project.  I'm not sure what color scheme to go with.  Here are a couple of ideas.  I'm a big fan of the first pic.

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Photo Filters

I found an app on my iPhone that adds crazy filters to photos.  Pretty cool looking actually.  This isn't directly hobby related, but I had some fun...

This is the original, followed by some filters...

And a couple more.  It's pretty cool to see things I painted turned into a sort of cartoony image.

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Star Wars Armada Tactica - Dangerous Territory

Dangerous Territory 

This objective can be a blank card. Both players control the same number of objective tokens. All the tokens are with the same number of points. Sure your opponent will take some damage by going over the obstacles, but nothing an engineering order or two won’t fix. In the end the typical result is a points push, and no net benefit to you.

So, why take this objective? Why even bother to talk about it?

Because if you’re willing to play with a go big or go home mindset, then you can really make your opponent’s life miserable. This objective forces players to suffer damage and take specific orders on turns one and two to mitigate that damage. Most players plan their first and second turns as token gathering and positioning turns, so forcing them out of their routine can help throw them off balance for the duration of the battle.

Lets look at the battle strategies that can turn this Plain Jane into a Betty Bruiser.
1) As second player, you want to take the station and place it on your side of the board.
2) Take the debris fields. The face up damage cards dealt by asteroids are a lot more punishing, and they cardboard pieces themselves are a lot smaller. This will help you predict where your opponent’s ships will be for one of the below strategies.
3) Remember you can overlap multiple obstacles and claim multiple tokens each turn. So, if you’re using this objective with a large base ship you have a lot of options.

Bumper Cars

The old corvette spam can ruin your opponent’s day with this objective. (Remember Flotillas don’t inflict damage onto ships they bump.) You just have to get into position so they keep landing on the obstacle. The damage from the obstacle along with the damage from repeatedly ramming you will slowly reduce them to space dust. I like the tactic best with Tarkin and Raiders/Gladiators because you can spam engineering orders to reduce the amount of damage cards on your opponent’s ships. The Raider’s front arc is well suited for the constant bombardment, and you can up the damage by giving each ship Ordnance Experts and Expanded Launchers. The downside is if you’re facing an ISD list, you’re fighting a losing battle. The ISD will destroy a Raider in a turn or two and most likely shrug off the damage.

The Rebels can do well with Rieekan zombies list here using the same parking lot strategy.

Fighter Balls

The objectives need to be far enough into the table to give you time to push your fighters against their wounded fleet. Fighter balls vary quite a bit these days, but even a modest fighter force can be fatal in this situation simply by forcing the opponent to play wounded. Most players will stack engineering orders to heal up, which leaves them without the navigation orders they may need to outmaneuver your onslaught. While taking one face up damage card is rough, watching Luke bomb damage onto the weakened hull is terrifying. Even medium base ships like Gups have to worry after a few damage cards that one good shot from an ISD or Home One could end their game much earlier than they planned.


If you like ISDs or MC30c and high-risk high-reward game play, you can scare the piss out of most opponents. The idea here is to engage them fast and hard with a lot of dice, similar to the sort of craziness brought on by CloneTrooper’s list in the Vassal tournament. Rather than playing bumper cars, you’re looking to swoop in on a target that isn’t ready for the battle and pile on the damage.

Victories for Victory

Victories work well with the objective if flown correctly. Your opponent has to telegraph their starting locations and general flight plan, which allows you to place your VSDs with more confidence that they’ll see battle. It’s still risky with those lovable lumberers, but it’s a much easier way to make it work.

There aren’t a ton of must takes with this list. In terms of upgrades, Engine Techs can help you get into position to keep your opponent’s ships on those obstacles. Tractor Beams can help further disrupt your opponent’s overall plans and keep them stuck on an asteroid for one more turn. If you’re a Rebel player, Luke makes even more of an impact than normal on this objective as low hull ships might die without losing a single shield.

Finally, there are a few obvious choices for commanders that compliment this objective: Ackbar for the increased attack, Dodonna to help choose the most devastating crit, and Rieekan or Motti to soak hull damage.

I hope this was somewhat helpful and informative. Until next time—She’s Got Admiral Ackbar Eyes.

Monday, July 25, 2016

Hordes Skorne Game

I'll post a more in depth review later as I don't have much time to type right now, but the short story is that I played a game using a Skorne starter and loved it.

Friday, July 22, 2016

Descent: Journeys in the Dark 2nd Edition

I love this game.  I f*#king love this game.  Seriously.  I'm going to talk a little bit about it today.

I'm not going to talk about how it's a damned cool dungeon crawler, even though it is.  I'm not going to talk about how the integrated iOS/Android app allows for truly cooperative and even solo play, even though it does.  I'm not even going to talk about how the array of tiles lets you build endless variations and unique dungeons to explore.  The one pictured below is tiny in comparison to some of the monstrosities I've seen.  Mechanically, this game has a lot to like, but I'm not going to talk about any of that.

What I'm going to talk about is that my wife loves it.  This is huge.  It's something we can play together.

I've been a gamer for years.  My gaming habit has taken many forms, but the most common have been role-playing video games and tabletop miniatures.  Role-playing video games tend to be solo affairs.  When my wife was still in college, she'd do her schoolwork while watching me play.  I secretly understood this to mean that she wasn't really interested in the games, but really just wanted to hang out with me while doing her work.  The video games were something she could sort of tune out.  Tabletop miniature games like Warhammer 40k are definitely social...  well, at least part of the time.  Sure, there's the fun of going up against an opponent, but there are also literally hundreds of hours of prep work involved if you get into painting and reading the fluff.  Tabletop miniatures games require mental, emotional and time commitments that aren't to be taken lightly.  In my wife's words, she "made two commitments in [her] life...  to [her] education and to [her] husband".  Making a commitment to a tabletop game simply isn't in the cards.

So, what does all this mean?  It means that I've found a game that she genuinely enjoys playing with me.  I'll come home from wok and she asks if I want to run through a Descent mission.  Yes.  Yes I do.

I guess my advice here is that if you have someone in your life that you want to share your love of games with, keep trying different things.  Eventually you'll find something you both enjoy.  I'm happy that we found Descent and I'm sure that we'll be able to grow this into a love of other cooperative games.


Ok, totally gonna talk about the game a little.  FFG has gotten much better at making minis.  The newest set looks amazing.  I've sen these up close and the detail below is completely true to real life.

Thursday, July 21, 2016


Nothing to see here today.  More tomorrow.  I promise.

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Warmahordes - Legion of Everblight

I'm still tying to decide what I'm going to play in Warmachine/Hordes.  On the Warmachine side, I have a pretty sub-par group of Mercenaries as well as the Proctectorate of Menoth starter set.  I've been told by close friends that I might enjoy Hordes more.

I looked over the various Hordes armies and tried to do a little research into the background.  My options are Trollbloods, Circle Orboros, Skorne, Legion of Everblight and Minions.  I was immediately drawn to Trollbloods for the visual appeal, but also immediately decided to pass since my buddy is playing Trollbloods.  Circle Orboros was an immediate pass because I just don't like the majority of their models.  I'm the sort of player who needs to like both the background and the models to really get behind an army.  Skorne was a solid maybe.  Minions was a solid no.  I learned my lesson with Mercenaries and will be treating Minions as a backup to a main faction.

Ultimately, I decided to go with Legion of Everblight.  There are two reasons.  First and foremost is that another friend gave me some models.  Free models is a compelling reason to play a faction.  In addition to having some free models, I really like the concept of what is basically an undead dragon possessing mountain ogres and snow elves by driving slivers of his frozen heart into their chests.  It's a cool concept.

I went out and bought one of the new starter sets so that I'd have a small rulebook and a couple of the newer models.  The starter comes with Kryssa, one of the Legion's Warlocks.  I don't know much about her, but imagine that I'll probably end up preferring a different Warlock.  It's unlikely that the one in the starter set will most closely match my preferred play style.  The starter also comes with a Neraph...  a flying Warbeast with four wings.  It's fast and can get to where it needs to be quickly.  The two little guys in the picture below are Shredders.  They're basically mouths with feet.  Not much more to say.  The last purple guy is a Nephilim Bolt Thrower.  The Nephilim are creepy as hell.  The Shredders are basically "brewed" in a cauldron using Warlock blood and magic.  Nephilim are born via a Blighted Nyss surrogate.  The Nyss are the snow elves.  So, basically, these poor elves are knocked up by undead dragon mojo and give birth to monstrosities.

The grey guy is a Nephilim Protector.  They are dedicated bodyguards for their assigned Warlock.  From a rules perspective, they can take the damage whenever the Warlock is hit with an attack.  It makes your Warlock much more durable.  The last model is a Beast Mistress.  She's the metal model with the sword.  She's basically a Warlock in training.  While she can't control massive groups of Warbeasts and can't handle as much Fury, she can work with one or two Warbeasts with no issue.

My plan is to give these guys a shot this coming Friday and see if I enjoy the faction a little more.

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Star Wars Armada Tactica - Opening Salvo

Opening Salvo 

At the end of the wave two meta, this card is basically blank as no opponent with an ISD or an MC80 will rationally consider taking it. The exposure is too great for them. But lets assume they have a plan and you have a plan for this double edged sword (just like we discussed in Advanced Gunnery). How do you make sure your plan is better?

Lets start with some serious recommendation about list building around this objective.
1) Never take with less than three ships. You need at least the average number of ships in a list to secure the tactical advantage. So anything less than three means you’re giving dice that you’re not getting from the average opponent.
2) Never take with a large base ship(s) in your build. This objective is a giant screw you to big ships. Half of an ISD is a Gladiator. Half of an MC80 is a Nebulon B. You want to minimize your own risk while maximizing your opponent’s risk. In this case that means not taking large base ships.
3) Be aware that a spam list will give you lots of dice, but might get your little ships killed much quicker. A lot of Mon Motha and GRRRR players favor this list because they get a lot of extra dice without offering up much in the way of points. And they’re right. It’s a great choice for them. However, what few of them consider are the now devastating first punches at long range coming off of an Ackbar infused Assault Frigate MkII. Yes, you get two black dice, but you’re now taking seven dice that are more than likely enhanced by a turbolaser. To the average Raider or CR90, that’s a one shot kill on turn two. So, if you’re thinking about taking it with a spam list make sure you can withstand the casualties you’re likely to suffer.
4) I don’t see it a lot but this objective works great on fighter centric lists with cheaper ship support (any list with 100+ points of fighters and no single ship costing over 100 points). You again minimize your own risk while maximizing your opponent’s risk. But you’re also making your fireball or Luke Skywalker more valuable as they only have to land on shot to rack up the points.
5) In my opinion, this objective works best on lists with four ships, no large bases, and a lot of navigation orders.

Now that you’ve had a moment to consider your list lets talk about the plan you’re going to execute with it.

Your real goal is to hold your first shot until a solid (if not optimal) opportunity presents itself while denying the first shot to your opponent. Even if you have your opponent severely overmatched, this is the one objective that penalizes you for simply trading shots. It’s better to wait and take minor pokes onto your shields then go in for the kill.

To that end, you’re going to need to stack navigation orders or take the navigation officer upgrade card to keep maintain positioning on your opponent’s ships (them in your primary arc and you not in their primary arc).

Your second goal is to put one damage card on each ship. Killing ships is awesome. The idea of blowing up an ISD is what gets me out of bed some mornings. But it’s half the fleet cost, including upgrades. This is where Luke or blobs of fighter mines (as Fire When Ready calls them) can earn more points than ever before. A shoestring of three A-Wings can plink away at an incoming ship and earn their collective points costs back in a single turn.

Upgrades You Should Take 

X17 OR Heavy Turbolaser Turrets 

One of these is a must take for this objective on every ship in your fleet. They are interchangeable on this list because you don’t care at all about how the damage card gets there as long as it’s there. So restricting the overall defense is what’s important. When you do the math, there is approximately a one point variable between specific ships depending on their shield structure.

Engineering Captains 

If you have the points this isn’t a bad idea. After all, denying an opponent 20-60 points at the last moment on a mildly damaged ship could win you the game or run up your margin of victory.

Engine Techs 

If you have the points, take them. They can help move you out of or into a bad arc. They can make sure you don’t get rammed on turn six and take damage card that costs you the game. They can in short be the difference between victory or defeat for this objective.

Upgrades You Should Avoid 

Intel Officers 

This card is good at killing but not so great at wounding ships. Yes, they lost a brace or whatever, but they still had it when they needed to keep the cards off their hull.

Veteran Captain

This card is normally pitched as a cheaper version engineering captains or similar officer slot. But that’s not true here where your most important order effects will be discarding damage cards and gaining a bit of extra yaw.

Support Officer/Nav Team

No, they don’t do the same thing, but they fill the same role: recovering from bad decision making (or compensating from an unforeseen event). These are cards you take to help you along in a pinch. My advice for this objective is to take them early on in your list building/play testing process (I always do).



This choice doesn’t need any real help. And adding two dice to another two dice mixed with a normal broadside isn’t math, it’s murder. For example, on an MC30c Scout Frigate with Ackbar, this makes your first shot at long range a six or seven die murder fest. Not bad for a 69 point crap bucket  with weird dice and no brace token.


The re-roll effect is nice and very useful if you’re planning on throw a lot of red and black dice. Vadar lets you gamble harder and invest bigger than most other commanders. That said, you have all the standard draw backs of a Vadar list to consider.


He lets you take a Defense Liaison with confidence. He gives you a re-roll for your big first shot. He does it all and more because he’s a Grand Moff. He gives you a nice amount of flexibility with this objective while still providing all the benefits he did before.

I hope this was somewhat helpful and informative. Until next time—She’s Got Admiral Ackbar Eyes.

Monday, July 18, 2016

Hordes Legion of Everblight - Blight Wasps

This sucks...

You may not immediately notice if you don't know the kit, but there should be 4 left wings and 4 right wings...  not 5 and 3.  It's a little hard to assemble 4 wasps when you don't have 4 sets of parts.  Sigh.

I just submitted a product replacement request with Privateer Press.  I'll probably post my experience with the resolution whenever it occurs.  I have no idea how long it should take.

Friday, July 15, 2016

Descent Minis Painted

I should start off by saying that this is not my work.  My buddy Jon and I have been playing lots of Descent: Journeys in the Dark 2nd Edition lately.  It's a fantastic game and I recommend you try it out.  The core game is all you need to start and it's always on sale on Amazon.

I have way too many painting projects that aren't currently getting attention, so I'm happy to say I get to benefit from my buddy's artwork.  He's fantastic at duplicating the card art onto the miniatures.  I wish I had more to show you, but these will have to do for now...

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Descent: Journeys in the Dark Hero Rims

I thought this was cool.  A friend did it and I stole the idea.  Thanks, Jon!

In the FFG game Descent, there are four hero archetypes.  Warriors have red icons, mages yellow and so on.  Painting all of the minis is the end goal, but realistically speaking, isn't going to happen anytime soon.  This is the next best thing.

I used some acrylic paint markers that I bought at AC Moore.  They're pretty useful.  I'm happy with the results and this took about 5 minutes total.  They're not in the picture, but I painted the rims of the big bosses (who are the same color plastic) in black.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Warmachine Mercs Reinforcements

Well...  I played a few games of Warmachine/Hordes.



I didn't like it that much.  My army sucks.  It sucks bad.  I had been told that there were no bad units in Warmachine.  I was told that you could pick pretty much anything and have a decent chance at battle.


From what I can tell, the game is ultra competitive and combo based.  There doesn't appear to be much room for casual play.  Most games seem to end around round 3 or so and if you make a poor decision, you might have no chance to recover from round 2 onward.  This makes me a little sad, because I'm first and foremost a casual player.


This is the game that my one circle of gaming friends has chosen.  I can either play or grow apart.  I'm choosing to play.  Hence, I've been doing research and know what I need to do next to make the army a little more viable.  I need to add a couple of units to capitalize on the potential combo action.

First, I'll be adding Hutchuk, a Minion/Mercenary Solo.  He can be saved until the end game to pull off a surprise attack and knock down a Warcaster's defenders.  Plus, it's an amazing looking model.

I'll also be adding an Ogrun Bokur to act as a bodyguard for my Warcaster.  He has Shield Wall, which allows him to take the hit whenever the Warcaster takes a blow.  I'll also be adding a second Horgenhold Artillery Corps.  It's a hard hitting unit that really benefits from Ossrum's Fire For Effect ability, giving them an extra +d6 on both to hit and damage rolls.  Past that, I'm not really sure.  I didn't really like how Thor worked, so I might be getting rid of him.  The Driller was amazing, but I let it get too far away from the action.

More to come.  I'm going to make this work.

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Star Wars Armada Tactica - Minefields


I’m going to go through each of the mission objectives one at a time. So, 12 articles in total that won’t be done quickly. I’m going to shoot for one per month. If they come quicker great. In each of these posts, the reader is player two and the opponent is player one.

Lets start with Minefields, which is far and away the most useful of the objectives because it fits well into any list and gives the second player an intense amount of board control. The misconception that Minefields gives a lot of players is “fitting into their list.” While that mentality is true for most of the other objectives, in the case of Minefields, the question should be what can I take from my opponent. Minefields is flexible and allows you to use it in response to any list by both causing damage and fiddling with position. While this approach does require some guess work, it’s not hard to deduce that a Rebel Ackbar list would like to move in a way that allows them to keep you in their side arc.

When you deploy the obstacles and mines for this mission, there are three basic strategies to consider.

Trap the Middle

Putting a lot of damage into the middle (or one side) of the board and forcing an opponent to go around or through.This works best if you are playing a rebel list that likes to move in swirl or C shaped pattern and your opponent is not.

The idea here is to create a wall of damage and misery for your opponent to cross over in order to fight you. This is especially good against the Empire who want to keep you in their front arc or against squadron heavy lists that require activation to be effective. Additionally, this strategy completely screws the Demolisher Title’s effectiveness as two mines can kill a Gladiator on a bad role.

Crowd Their Deployment Zone

Good against most lists and a solid default, but excellent against CR-90 and other small ship spam lists. The goal is simple: put all the mines in or just outside of your opponent’s deployment zone. The mines and obstacles will hopefully damage or even destroy a few ships before turn two.

End Zones

Similar to trap the middle, but used to exclude both sides of the board outside of the deployment area. This is great if you play a list dependent on forward arcs and your opponent does not.

Done properly this deployment will allow your Victory Class Star Destroyers to wreak havoc on Admiral Ackbar and company.

Support Your Minefield

Now comes the tricky part, support your minefield, but don’t get blown up. If you place all those obstacles and objective markers perfectly, but don’t fly close enough to shoot an opponent who has just detonate a mine or two or (if you’re really lucky) three, then you’ve wasted the opportunity presented by the objective. While it is annoying to your opponent to have to spend their command dials and/or tokens on engineering, it is something they can plan for.

So, what do you do? Make the terms of the engagement cost your opponent more resources than yourself by maintaining pressure on their ships and squadrons while the terrain does the extra work for you. Follow these guidelines:

Plan to be in your ship’s preferred range the turn your opponent hits the minefield. Ideally, you’re opponent will think you’re going to hit the mine. They may slow down or alter course to capitalize on their perceived advantage, but a navigation command or token will allow you to slow down or turn away at the last second. This is generally enough to trick an opponent into flying straight into the mine.

Make sure your activation economy is favorable. You’re going to be player two, make sure your opponent as to activate a ship that will clear the mines out of your way. If you’re are playing with less activations, then play defensively. Let them it the wall first and suffer the damage even if you don’t engage until turn three or even four.

Send your squadrons though to soften up the targets even more. Whether it’s rogues, TIE fighters or A-Wings, ordering them through the danger zone without penally to strip off some shields, harass your opponent, and encourage them to engage you on your terms is very helpful for this mission. Remember this game is about ships; all squadrons are ultimately pawn sacrifices.


No one commander is best suited to this mission. But a handful offer a better advantage than their counterparts.

My favorite commander with this mission is Tarkin (though I’ll say that a lot) in this mission he lets you take the concentrate fire command AND the navigation token at the same time. Slowing your ships just outside of the minefield’s range while weakening your opponent’s ships as they sail to glory.

Ozzel lets you pull of some swanky and annoying feints with this mission. The only problem is your opponent might see it coming. So, be prepared to have a follow up tactical decision should your first maneuvering trick fails.

Motti offers a solid choice as your can afford the hull damage (even on smaller ships) to use the minefields as a surprise. Most players will not seriously consider the idea that an opponent with simply roll through the minefields, tank the damage, and consequently catch them out of position.

Dodonna is the best choice for the Rebels as the increase chance of the right face up damage card at the right moment are improved by dealing out some much punishment.

Ackbar is well Ackbar. He’s my overall favorite, and the guy that let me win a lot early on. While minefields doesn’t specifically give him and edge, he’s always a great choice.

I hope this was somewhat helpful and informative. Until next time—She’s Got Admiral Ackbar Eyes.

Monday, July 11, 2016

Rhulic Warjacks Part 3

I did it!  I got the whole army assembled!  I say that like the whole army is more than 11 models.  It's not.  The whole 25 points is just 11 models.  I'm loving this game from a sheer army size standpoint.

The dudes I assembled today are the Grundback Gunners.  They don't have much in the way of health, but they're cheap.  Like the Blasters from the previous post, these guys are basically just guns on legs.

I also knocked out the basing for these guys by gluing down some sand.  You'll note that I'm using the "Good Sand".  There's a story behind it.  It's not super exciting, but I get a kick out of it, so I'm going to tell it anyways.  A couple of years into my marriage, my wife went to the local GW store to get my a birthday gift.  She had already gotten me something "real" and was just looking for a little something extra.  My friend, who ran the store at the time, convinced her that I would be really excited by a container of sand.  He did it as a joke.  Nobody gets excited by sand.  So, this is now my good sand and it only gets used for special occasions.

See..  not a very exciting story.

Sanding!  Yay!  This is so tedious and boring.  Plus, I ruined a brush by accidentally getting a little superglue on the tip.  Kris is sad now.

Here is the full 25 point list, with PVA/sand mix drying.  If the weather holds up, I might do some priming later tonight.  I'd like to get to a point where I can start painting ASAP.

This is what the full list looks like.  I'll write a little more about each unit in the next post.  I should have a couple of games under my belt by then.

Friday, July 8, 2016

Rhulic Warjacks Part 2

I spent a bit more time putting together the other Gunner and the Basher.  On a side note, I get a kick out of how NOT creatively the Rhulic Jacks are named.  The Gunner has a gun.  The Driller has a drill.  The Basher bashes stuff.

I actually love the aesthetic of these models.  They aren't really shaped like humanoids in that they don't have arms.  It's nice to see a little variation.  Warmachine Warjacks can get a little repetitive as they all look pretty similar from faction to faction.  I like how the dwarves took guns and battering rams and gave them legs.  They didn't build dwarf shaped robots with guns in each arm...  well...  except for the Driller, I suppose.

This post is going up Friday morning.  These guys will see some action Friday night.  My next post will hopefully be a full accounting of victorious battle.

Anyways, here are some pictures...

Two more small 'Jacks and the force hits 25 points.  The goal is to get them done before the Friday night game.  They're a quick assembly job with no pinning required.

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Rhulic Warjacks Part 1

As promised, I got some time to put together a couple of the Warjacks for my Mercenaries Faction Warmachine army.  Right now, I own a total of six Warjacks.  Four of them are the little guys you see below.  They're basically guns on legs.  It's what I imagine Grots would build to replace Squigs if they were in charge of the 40k universe.

The larger guy is a Driller.  He's full melee with a giant drill arm and a claw.  I sort of imagine that he's a re-purposed drilling machine.  At least, that's the look I'm getting.  Plus, the Rhulics are basically steampunk dwarves.  Dwarves love mining, right?

Assembling this guy took some serious time.  The metal pieces didn't all fit together snugly, so I had to do quite a bit of pinning.  For those of you who don't know, pinning involves drilling two small holes on the two pieces of metal (or whatever) to be joined and then running a bit of paper clip in between.  This gives the bond a greater strength.  A properly pinned model can be thrown against a wall and it won't break apart.

I only got two of the 'Jacks assembled.  Time is at a bit of a premium lately and I had other things I needed to get accomplished.  Curse you, real life responsibilities!

Anyways, here's a group shot of what I have assembled and painted so far.  There are three of the smaller 'Jacks and one medium sized 'Jack yet to be assembled.  The plan is to then paint everything and only once everything is painted, THEN will I decide what to buy next.

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Assembling Mood

I've been in an assembly sort of mood lately.  I don't know why, but sometimes all I want to do is paint for hours on end and others times I just don't have the patience.  Lately, I haven't had any patience at all.

Plus, it's been really nice working with metal models again.  Picking up Warmahordes has been sort of like stepping into a time machine.  Sure, the models aren't quite as sharp and the metal piecces don't align quite as well, but overall I'm pretty happy.  There is a certain amount of nostalgia involved with putting these guys together.

Today's entry is a Warmachine Mercenaries Horgenhold Artillery Corps Unit.  It's a great unit for taking out massed infantry, but kind of useless for attacking the bigger, lone Warjacks and Warbeasts.  I'm looking foward to seeing how it performs on the battlefield.

Here's a shot with everything I have assembled so far.  The dude second from the left is General Ossrum.  He's going to be the leader of my army.

I should have some of the Warjacks assembled in time for tomorrow's post.